Tutorial: Drawstring bag

A drawstring bag is really simple to put together, there are a whole slew of ways to construct them, and there are a million uses for such a bag.  This version is reversible, lined so that there are no raw edges visible, and the casing is reinforced to that there isn't fraying when the cords are cinched or pulled open.

Tutorial:
Assumptions (unless noted): Seams are 1/4", sewing is done with right sides together, backstitch each time you sew

Supplies: two pieces of fabric large enough to make your bag body, cording (I chose macrame, but ribbon, leather lace, twill tape, etc will work nicely), safety pin, thread, rotary cutter and/or scissors

To figure out the size of your fabric: Take a loose measurement of the item you want your bag to hold.  I wanted a ball of yarn, needles and my half finished hat that measured about 8"x8" when I put in on my cutting mat.  I added two inches to each side of the measurements to allow for cinching or bigger projects, so my bag sides will be 12"x12"

Cut:
1 piece bag outer (width equals your project width, length is project length time 2) I cut mine 12"x24"
1 piece bag inner the same size as the outer
2 pieces cording the width of your bag times 3 (mine was 12*3=36")

Step 1: Fold bag pieces in half lengthwise.  Measure 1.25" from the top and mark.  Measure 1" from that and mark again.  Do this on both sides of the bag outer and bag inner.  This will be your casing.

Step 2: Sew from the top of the bag down to your first mark.  Pick up the needle and sew again from the second mark to the bottom of your bag.  Again, do this on both sides of the bag outer and inner.

Step 3: Press seams open making note of holes that were left for casings. 

Step 4: Stitch a box around the hole, catching both seams.  This is the step that will reinforce the casing so that the ends don't poke out. (White thread used to be visible in photo, use coordinating thread)

Step 4 1/2: From the outside, it will look like this.  And, yes, do this for both holes in the lining and bag outer.
Step 5: Turn bag inner right side in, and leave bag outer right side out.  Place bag inner inside of bag outer so that the right sides are facing.  Make sure that the holes for the casing line up.

Step 6: Stitch along the upper raw edges of the bag.  Leave a two inch opening for turning. 

Step 7: Turn bag right side out so that the bag outer and bag inner make a long rectangle. 

Step 8 (Sorry! No photo): Shove bag inner into bag outer, then press the opening shut and stitch either with your machine (like I did) or blind stitch it closed with a handsewing needle and thread. 

Top of casing

Bottom of casing

Step 9: Again make sure that the holes for the casing are lined up, and stitch all the way around the bag right at the top of the casing holes.  Stitch all the way around the bag again at the bottom of the casing holes.  Your drawstring casing is now complete. 

Step 10: Insert one edge of a drawstring cord into one of the casing holes.  Thread it all the way around until it pokes back out of the casing hole right next to the one you started with.  Tie both ends in a knot.  Repeat this step but insert the cord into the OPPOSITE side of the bag that you put the first cord in.  Tie another knot in this cord.

Step 11: Pull each side of the cord, and your bag should cinch together.  Fill bag, pull closed and tote around.  If you get tired of your bag, you can pull it right side out and by just flipping the cord around, you'll look like you've got a whole new sack!

THE END!

Giveaway Day!

It's the day we've all been waiting for!  Sew, Mama, Sew! is hosting Giveaway Day!

I've got two chances to win today, one for a finished Buttercup Bag (adapted from the design by Rae Hoekstra) in a creamy white linen/rayon blend with a simple sage green cotton print lining and band. 

Then!  Another reader will get a kit to follow my tutorial and make a complete cubed drawstring pouch.  5 charm squares (Michael Miller and... I forgot.  Cute, though), a linen/rayon blend for the lining, 16" of trim for the casings, 44" of ribbon for ties, and a scrap of decor bond to sturdy up the bottom.  You're totally covered, just add sewing machine and thread.

The Good Stuff:
1.  Comment on this post to enter.  Gain another entry by tweeting or blogging about this post, then come back and leave another comment with the link.
2.  The giveaway will close December 6, 2009, winners to be posted December 7, 2009.
3.  If your email address isn't public on your blog and/or blogger profile, please leave it in your comment.
4.  This giveaway is open to anyone is the whole wide world.

Don't forget to check out the rest of the blogs/shops participating in Giveaway Day.  I know I'll have some stiff competition for all of the neat swag out there!

Cubed Drawstring Pouch: Tutorial

Better late than never, right?  Right.

To get started with this pouch, you'll need:
6 squares of fabric measuring 5".  I used charm squares, so they were precut
1 16" by 5" rectangle
1 strip trim (I used cotton lace) 16"

1 5" square interfacing

2 22" strips drawstring cord (I used suede lace) (not pictured)

Plus, the usual suspects: scissors/rotary cutter, thread, pins, sewing machine

Assumptions:  1/4" seam, unless noted.  Clip all seams after stitching.  That I was getting antsy and forgot to photo some steps. 

1.  Arrange 4 squares to make the sides of the pouch.  With right sides together sew squares together to form 1 long strip.

2.  Fold strip in half lenghtwise and sew the raw 5" sides together. 

Flipped right side out (but you don't need to flip it yet) it will look like this.

3. If you're using fusible interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of your bottom square now.  If you're using sew-in, baste it now.

4. Right sides together, pin the bottom square, matching corners, to the sides of the pouch.  Use a lot of pins if you need to keep it in line.

5.  With the sides facing up (if they don't flop down, fold them toward the middle), sew around all four edges of the pouch bottom.  Pivot at each corner with the needle still in to sew all of the edges.  You may have to "flip" your pouch side under your needle to keep sewing aftter turning.  That's OK.  You also might want to backstitch at the corners for strength.

6.  Flip right side out.

7.  Take long rectangle (lining) and fold in half, right sides together, with the two short raw edges lined up.  Sew raw edges.

8.  Pin inside bottom, right sides together, to the lining sides just as you did the outer sides and sew (just as you did the outside).  Leave about a two inch opening on one edge for turning.

9.  Cut 8 2" strips of your trim (to be used as the drawstring casing) and fold in half to  make 1" loops.

10.  Put the pouch outer inside of the pouch lining (make sure right sides are facing) matching up the side seams.  As you match them up, pin the casing strips in between the two layers.  The loop with be facing down and the raw edges will line up with the raw edges of your pouch.  Put the casing strips at each side seam, and halfway (2.25") between each seam.

11.  Sew around the entire top of pouch, backstitching over the casing strips for stability.

12.  Pull the pouch through the hole you left for turning, poking out the corners. 

13.  Using a slip stitch or with a scant 1/8" seam on your machine sew the hole closed.

14.  Push the lining into the pouch, and press the top even.

15.  Topstitch 1/8" from the edge of the pouch. 

16.  Cut the 2 22" drawstring cords

17.  Weave the cords through the casing and tie the ends together.  Begin weaving your second cord into the casing strips you tied your first cord off at.  You want the tied edges to be on opposite sides of the pouch.  (Note:  These might shift as you use them, just adjust them as you like)

18.  Cinch up the drawstring to close the pouch.

19.  Admire.  Use.  Repeat.

If you have trouble or if you make a pouch and want to share it email me!

Like the pouch but want to save the time of making it?  I've got a few in my shop. 

I'm not sure this even counts as sewing

I've acually been putting the project off for a long time, and the only excuse I have is I didn't want to cut and iron such a big square.

My mom is hosting Thanksgiving this year, which involves seating more people than her kitchen table will allow, so the plan is to put card tables in the family room and eat there.  Today, about a month after the fabric was purchased, I finished the tablecloths for the card tables.

Care for a mini tutorial? 

I cheated when determining the size of the tablecloth.  I had one huge piece of fabric (3 yards?  I said it had been a long time since it was purchased!), so I folded it selvedge to selvedge, cut off any frays or shrinkage from washing/drying and measured.  It was 51". 

Then I cut the other raw edge to measure 51", too, so I had two giant squares.

Fold and press a double 1/2" seam all the way around, pinning as you go.

Sew 1/4" hem around the whole tablecloth, and then another 1/4" away from the original hem. 

Press the whole thing, then throw it on the table. 

Voila.

Scrap Buster: Quilted Coasters

Is it check in time?

Hi.  I save fabric scraps.  Bigger scraps, sure, but also small scraps.  Very small scraps.

Sew, Mama, Sew! is hosting Scrap Busters Month, and along with getting some great ideas for using up my own stash, I'm sharing one of my own favorite scrap busters.

Behold, the (sort of) Quilted Coaster.  These are awesome, because any little tiny bit that you've saved along the way will work.  I'm talking the tiniest of the tiny can be used.

1. Gather materials.

You'll need:

FABRIC SCRAPS!

6" square low loft batting

Rotary cutter and mat OR scissors

The usual suspects (sewing machine, thread, iron...)

2. Cut scraps.  You'll want to have a finished square 5.5", and I used a variety of scrap sizes to make these.  The smallest were 1" X 2" the biggest 5.5" X 5.5".  (I got a bit lazy and didn't patchwork the back of the coaster, only the front.  Feel free to show me up and patchwork both sides.)

3. Patchwork.  To put together your top sew the pieces right sides together with a 1/4" seam allowance until you have your finished square.  I pieced them into strips 5.5" long, and then sewed the strips together to form the square.

4. Measure your square for size and then trim any threads or leftover fabric bits.

5.  Quilt your coaster top.  I just stitched straight lines about an inch away from each other.  (I stitched a contrasting square in one of them as well.)

5 1/2.  Embrace wonkiness, your coasters have character!

6.  Make a coaster (quilt) sandwich.  I layer the 5.5" bottom square right side up, patchworked top right side down and then batting on top.  Stitch around three full sides, leaving a 2" opening on one side for turning.

7.  Turn right side out, poking our corners and smoothing coaster.  Press flat, folding in opening.

8.  Stitch along the edges of the coaster 1/8" away from the edges, closing the opening as you go.

9.  Trim threads.

10. Grab drink, prop up feet, marvel at neat looking coaster.

10 1/2.  Decide you want a whole set, grab remaining scraps and make more coasters!

ETA: I'm having a scrap busting giveaway! 

Not Sew Scary: Easy peasy zipper pouch

Sewing with zippers can be daunting.

I know this, because every single one of my early projects was chosen and created simply because there was no need for a zipper. If I needed a method of closure? Iron-on velcro to the rescue.

It didn't take long, though, for me to make friends with the zipper. And once I did, I learned they're pretty fun! not so bad after all.

There are a few different ways to sew a zipper in your project, but the centered zipper is east peasy and ready for a beginner to take on. By the time you finish with this tutorial, you'll have a great looking zippered pouch.

1. Gather your supplies. For this project I ran around a grabbed:
A rotary cutter
Cutting mat
Scrap fabric (make sure you've got enough for two good sized pieces, mine were 9" X 6ish")
8" zipper (that looks neato with your fabric, also, get a zipper that's longer or shorter if you use a different size fabric)
Thread
Iron
Zipper foot (I'll get busted in the photos, and totally did not use a zipper foot. Mine was in the basement and I caught a case of the lazy. I'd recommed you use yours.)
Seam ripper

2. Cut your fabric to the size you want. Again, I cut mine about 9" X 6". I was using an odd shaped scrap and the biggest part of the scrap dictated the size of the pouch sides. Use a ruler of something stiff to guide your cutter. You'll see I used an advanced sewing tool called "American Girl Magazine"

3. Put the two pieces of fabric, with the edges lined up, right sides together (the pretty sides in), and baste (I use the longest straight stitch setting on my machine).  No need to backstich here, we'll rip them out in a minute.

4. Press the seam open

5. Center your zipper FACE DOWN on the seam that you just made, and pin it in place, or baste the short sides of the zipper to keep it in place.  I guess I forgot to take a picture of this step, but as long as you have the zipper snug on the fabric, you'll do fine!

6. Sew around the four sides of your zipper. With the needle down, pivot the fabric at each corner to make sure your stitches line up. Backstitch to make sure that zipper stays on!

P.S. THIS IS WHEN YOU WANT TO USE YOUR ZIPPER FOOT. Do as I say and not as I do, and all that jazz.

7. Right now, your zipper is covered by fabric and the basting stitches. Using your seam ripper, rip out the basting and the zipper will make an appearance.

8. Unzip the zipper about two or so inches. Really, do it. It won't be pretty to forget this step.

9. Make sure the zipper is unzipped about two or so inches.

10. Turn the fabric back out, so that the right sides are facing. Line up the sides and get the zipper to lay as neatly as possible. Pin the sides and sew the three sides of the pouch that don't have the zipper attached. Guide your seam allowance by the end of the zipper. You want to sew about 1/4" inside of the end of the zipper. My seam allowance was 1/4". Don't forget to backstitch to secure it!

11. Clip any fabric bulk that's hanging around after you sew up the sides. Be careful not to cut your stitches. Cutting the leftover fabric will leave your pouch smoother inside.

12. Turn the pouch right side out (see why you opened the zipper?), and push out the corners (with your finger, a pen bottom, chopstick...something thin but not too sharp). Press again if you want your pouch really polished. (You'll notice I skipped the press.)

13. Admire! You totally sewed up a zippered pouch! Throw in pencils, change, bobbins, WHATEVER! (Oh, and if some fuzzies from your basting reappear, just brush them off.)